Scotland 2022

Our spring cruise Pogo, like every year, held a few surprises for us! After Spain and Portugal last year, we chose to take an alternate route this year and head north. Our goal was, depending on the weather, to sail as fast as possible to Scotland towards Oban and Tobermory and visit the beautiful Hebrides. The rest was wonderful … but somewhat different!

Participants: Bruno B. 36 BOOMERANG 2 de saint Malo, Thierry G. 8,50 SO WHAT! Saint Marie de Ré, Claude N. 12.50 VENULLUS de Port la forêt, Henri M. 30 LéTHé de la Trinité and Xavier P. 30 X-RAY de kernevel
The project was as usual; to get together a group of Pogos not in a regatta, a rally and even less a cruise. At each stop we gathered in a festive, even very festive atmosphere, for a navigation debrief and weather analysis of the days to come and to define the objectives. We gave each other advice and each skipper chose his own route according to his software. Very informative. From that we noticed that some, although old (lol,) are real geeks and master an impressive number of very practical apps on their phones. Isn’t that right, Bruno?

Leaving Lorient on May 14, the first objective was to stop in Lesconil after a very short day sailing. This gave us the opportunity to reconsider what was essential to ensure security for a long cruise especially as some skippers were sailing solo: autonomy in water, fuel, means of satellite communication, medicine etc. It turned out to be a great adventure for many of us!! Those who entrusted winter maintenance to third parties had many problems.

The weather was favorable to pass the raz and stop in Ouessant before heading to the Scilly isles. The rule never to moor in Lampaul with a NW to SW wind , was respected. However, after passing the Vieille without incident, the wind dropped and Thierry’s engine, perfectly overhauled in La Rochelle, began to smoke… We then agreed to leave it to be carried by the current, back to the bay of Douarnenez for repairs. Sailing North in the Irish Sea without a motor is, to say the least, unthinkable. Thierry, with his usual optimism said: “don’t worry, I’ll join you in Scotland”. Oops, the voyage had started badly and a terrible doubt invaded us…but we were wrong: with an 8.50 everything is possible, everything is achievable.

Departure from Lampaul on the 16th at 1.30 p.m. in duo with Venullus and his proud crew, route to the Scilly .165 nautical miles. Fortunately, we found two free moorings which suited us perfectly as there was a gale warning of force 8 to 10 announced for the evening… We met Anne and Bruno B. who joined us from Saint Malo and we celebrated this with our first fish and chips! The 36 is a superb boat and its crew were on the job: Scotland is ours!
On the 19th the sea was still choppy but we had SW wind. We took advantage of this and left at 4 p.m. from Ste Mary to pass west of the rail in broad daylight, we made good progress under gennaker towards Dunmore where we arrived around noon. 145 nautical miles, a great cruise. The still favorable weather pushed us to Greystones after 97 nautical miles and then to Northern Ireland at Ardglass the next day. Hauling down your spinnaker correctly when you are solo is a difficult manoeuvre and it came down too quickly for my taste (hence the discreet shower). Sailing solo turns out to be a profession!
On the 22nd we were in Scotland in Campbeltown .YES. Very nice stopover. We found a very good restaurant just in front of the pontoon. Perfect. Food, laundry and rest.
Two days later we reached Carradale and Tarbert via Loch Ranza, our first sail down a loch. It was beautiful, we were under the spell despite having to take 2 reefs in the mainsail.
May 25 we went from Tarbert to Largs by going around the island of Bute. We left with 2 reefs in the mainsail. When we arrived to the North of this island we discovered the katabatic winds. These winds come down from the mountains and don’t announce themselves…43 knots! Fortunately, it was downwind. An Englishman who wanted to race with X-RAY under genoa alone had a few problems : broaching, boat lying down, and a catastrophic hauling down of sails. Bruno contacted me by VHF: He was of course in front (!) and had begun to descend. We wisely agreed to haul down our sails and advance with our motors as the situation had become very difficult and dangerous.
Road to the Crinan canal. We arrived in Ardrishaig around noon but on a Sunday and that’s not a good idea at all. At 3 p.m. we passed our first lock and then… that was it. We were stuck until the next day. Unfortunately, the midgees, tiny but hungry Scottish mosquitoes, were there to greet us! Fifteen locks later we arrived at Port Crinan to head south of Jura to Lowlandman’s Bay. Alone. Wonderful. The passage of this channel was certainly an interesting experience but we will not do it again. When soloing, never leave your two mooring lines cleated for a moment during lockage: some lock keepers are in a great hurry…
May 31st. Arrived at Port Ellen in Islay (pronounce: aïla). Great moment. We unknowingly arrived on the first day of the Islay week: Every day of the week a famous distillery takes turns to open its doors for an open bar. Unforgettable moments where, for example, French crews, whose names we will keep silent, returned to the pontoons in great shape and participated in a giant karaoke for the great pleasure of our Scottish friends who were not the last to party. After two days our livers becoming fatty, and by mutual agreement we left for Loch Tarbert in Jura. You have to eliminate.
We passed the sound of Islay between Islay and Jura. Entering Bunnahabhain Bay in front of a distillery (one more) but poorly sheltered. We finally slept opposite. The next day we went to Craobh. Big discovery: we had seen on our maps a lot of acronyms like wavelets. It turned out to be a danger=current signal. Yes, but strong, even very strong. The passage between Elean Mor Island and Jura is likely to be an unforgettable memory if you do not do it perfectly at the slack. It may be fine but… It turns out to be Corryvrekan Chasm with some awesome potholes. 3rd biggest maelstrom in the world. Videos of all madmen taking helmeted passengers in RIBs around the edges of whirlpools are spectacular. And some pay to do it…
If you see your speed is 11.7n in calm weather: you’re there! Thereafter we were very vigilant when we saw these acronyms and the tide times. They are indicated in many places.
June 3 from Craobh to Puilladibraihn. It was magical. We spent the night at anchor and had a long walk among the herds, through a field with a hundred not very shy rabbits right next to a pub in this very small village. The atmosphere was amazing. Sailing back to civilization towards Oban we passed by the very small loch Ellean Dubh. A tight entrance but afterwards, it was simply magnificent. There were a few sailboats at anchor and we had another very nice trip, first in the dinghy, surrounded by seals, then on land. It was just sumptuous and so calm.
June 6 we sailed towards Staffa. We had a nice visit of the Abbey of Saint Colomba d’Iona . We truly appreciated the calm view facing the sea. These basalt columns of Staffa are certainly impressive. However, there is infinitely more beautiful a handful of miles opposite. If you pass by Dutchman’s Cap your breath will be taken away: greeted by hordes of little penguins you will have to launch your dinghy, and then climb up the rock face to have the rare pleasure of approaching (if you are very very gentle) within ten meters some little puffins, just as Bruno did. Certainly a very magical moment!
June 7 from Gometra Loch to Tobermory. The pretty postcards of this small port with very colorful houses turned out to be accurate. It was a very pleasant stopover that we recommend. And all the more so since the marina of Oban, essential for transfers to airports, is only authorized for a maximum of two days… Hence a retreat to the marina opposite kerura and there, although sheltered, the sea is choppy. Once again a pleasant surprise awaited us: Henri M. was on the pontoon to greet us. Owner of a Pogo30 called Lethe and based in Trinity, he was cruising with his crew in Scotland. Initially he was not very keen on becoming a member of our association but after a few drops of a typical Scottish beverage and no doubt in the euphoria he decided to become a member of the AIP! Henri joined us on the trip back to France. As for Thierry G. on his 8.50, that we had left in Douarnenez with major mechanical problems, we received an unexpected email one afternoon: “I’m coming!!!!” We thought it was a joke but after his improbable arrival solo at the pontoons, our reunion at the bar of the yacht club was Homeric… Hats off to Thierry.
We had planned to stop in Oban and come back to France for 48 hours via Glasgow and then return to visit the Hebrides Islands with a new stop in Tobermory. Emmanuel our excellent webmaster had fed us a dream … But that was before…
After a visit to Glasgow, which was a little disappointing after our magnificent weeks close to nature, we had to face the facts: the conditions were rotten. Bruno and Anne had had to stay opposite Tobermorry in Loch Aline for eight days in the rain and wind. In short a catastrophy.
A first gust of wind, then a second. Council of war: the weather forecasts were terrible for the next few days. Heading north to the Hebrides was unthinkable. There were few or no marinas for shelter. It was certainly very beautiful but not in gale force winds. We agreed therefore to go south protecting ourselves between the islands and the mainland. My 16-year-old grandson made me very happy by joining me for the thousand mile journey back home and was decorated by Anne with a golden puffin!
In general, in the Irish Sea the prevailing wind comes from the SW then it turns to the NW, that’s in the books. We had four successive depressions and no change to allow us to sail downwind. From Oban we descended to Tarber loch in Jura continuing to pay attention to the dangerous tidal streams then we moored at Gigha Island before joining Ratlin in Northern Ireland.
By June 17 nothing was getting any better. We stopped at the port of Glenarm then Carryfergus to the NW of Belfast. We then sailed through loch Stangford and Carlingford. Between the depressions there was no wind . We arrived in Dublin at Dun Loaghaire. There we received an unfriendly welcome by the harbor master’s office: coming from the N we should have announced ourselves on the VHF which we didn’t know…. Afterwards we sailed to Arklow then Kilmore, which is a very nice little port although a little crowded! Here we heard our fourth gale warning. All the very big southern Irish trawlers remained blocked by three or four at the quay for four days like us! Outside it was hell!
June 29 A small good weather opportunity opened up for us. Bruno and Anne considered joining the south of England with their Pogo36. The two 30s headed for the Scilly isles. The arrival in England proved difficult. As for us, we reached the Scilly isles around 11 p.m. after 141 nautical miles.
On July 3, the two Pogo 30’s arrived in Sainte Marine after a stopover in Ouessant. Bruno and Anne on their Pogo36 travelled a bit in the South of England before joining Saint Malo. Claude N. with his Pogo12.50 also cruised in the south of England before joining the first Pogo rally in Barneville Carteret. As for Thierry G. and his Pogo8.50, everything went well for him; having family in Oban, he took the opportunity to have a well-deserved stop before a much calmer return than we had.