Water in trunk
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Hello everyone
Does anyone know how to prevent water from entering the stern locker of the 850. It’s quite unpleasant as you have to empty the locker regularly to clean out stagnant water and water-soaked objects. My boatyard recommends changing the rudder bushes, which I’m going to do anyway, as my boat is 10 years old. But is this enough?
Thanks for your advice
Bruno
Indeed, having a water inlet in your trunk or worse, at the foot of your mast, is unbearable to say the least, and you have to fight for it…First act: analysis. Is it fresh or salt water? Empty the trunk completely, then find a mate who will spray copiously with buckets of water or a hose, while you lie on the bottom of the trunk, hood closed and equipped with a flashlight to discover the culprit. Is it the hood gasket or the bushes? Act Two: Reaction. Nothing could be easier than changing the gasket. Clean with acetone, then make the crucial choice of a quality adhesive gasket. It has to be exactly the same width as the notch, and above all it has to be able to make the curves without cutting. The rare bird exists. At first, the thickness of the seal makes it a little hard to close, but very quickly everything will fall into place and you won’t have any more untimely water ingress. If, on the other hand, it’s the bushes that are at fault, you’ll probably have to remove the rudders and let the water out. This operation was well described in a previous post… Enjoy your reading.
PS: the worst thing to do on the mast bellow joint would be to apply transparent sika. Yes, but no! This excellent product attacks aluminum copiously. Guaranteed electrolysis: Rhaaaaa… a bare mast costs an arm and a leg!
Hello,
Same suggestion as Xavier for the trunk seal. I don’t think the rudder bushings are to blame. I changed those on my 8.50 3 years ago, not because of the watertightness but because of slight play due to wear. Of course, Prim Avel was 13 years old and had over 50,000 miles on the clock.
As for the absolute watertightness of the mast, I’ve tried different methods: adhesive, sanitary seal end, rubson end.
This last device seems to have been satisfactory for 1 year.
I haven’t noticed any electrolysis at this level.
On the other hand, I have cleaned the part that holds the mast step and the mast step itself, and coated them with marine grease to prevent electrolysis from occurring there.
My mast step is connected to a keel bolt by an electric cable to keep the rig and keel at the same potential.
Thank you for your answers.
It’s fresh water, not salt. My wintering yard is looking into the problem. It seems to come from the upper rudder bearings. So I’m having them replaced.
The suggestions to prevent electrolysis of the mast are well noted.
Good evening,
I had the same problem this year and it came from the nuts that fixed the two latches on the trunk. A little Sika and it was solved.
You should only change the bushes when there is a lot of play. You can feel it on the helm, especially upwind.
As for the corrosion on the mast, as I dismast almost every year, as a preventive measure, I sprayed a METAFLUX “Stainless Steel Spray” on the stern and foot of the mast. No worries since, but if the end remains permanently damp, it doesn’t help and corrosion can happen very quickly.
Good idea François to connect the mast to one of the keel bolts with a cable.
Merry Christmas
Hello,
Thanks also for the answers, as the trunk is the only place where water still gets in, and that was puzzling me. I’ll take a closer look. I haven’t noticed that the sanitary seal is corroding. And I note for the equipotentiality.
Hello
my pogo 850 also has a water ingress problem in the aft locker and through the mast; the high tide yard in Trégunc (29) did a major refit of the interior and seems to have solved the water problem. It was stagnating in the companionway and under the table. I’ve only been out 3 times since the work was done, but it seems to be working.
good evening to all ( and I’ve made a note not to put Sika at the bottom of the mast!)
danièle (pogo 850 bigorn’ô-CC)
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